Enamel, a vitreous and glass-like coating fused onto a metallic base, has a rich history that transcends cultures and centuries. The word "enamel" itself has linguistic roots tracing back through High German and Old French, with its current usage as "smalto" in Italian, "email" in French and German, and "enamel" in English.
In this blog, we take you on a journey through time to explore the origins and evolution of enameled jewelry. This captivating art form has adorned civilisations from ancient times to today.
Ancient Beginnings: Mycenæan Period
The earliest known enamelled objects date back to the 13th century BC in Cyprus during the Mycenæan period. Gold rings discovered in a Mycenæan tomb showcased vitreous-coloured layers fused onto gold, marking the birth of vitreous enamelling.
Cloisonné Technique Emerges
The origins of the Cloisonné technique emerged in Cyprus, where glass was fused onto metal, creating a network of small raised areas. This technique, dating back to 4000 BC, was employed for setting semi-precious stones into jewelry, a method widely used by ancient Egyptians.
Enamels in Ancient Europe
As Caesar conquered Britain, enamels were already used among the Celts, with examples found in museums around the British Isles. The champlevé technique, where recesses in metal are filled with black enamel, was prominent in artefacts like Saxon hanging bowls found in the Sutton Hoo boat grave.
Byzantine and Russian Influence
In the 9th century AD, Cloisonné technique enamels returned to the Middle East in Byzantine Constantinople and later to Russia. Byzantine-style enamels, often comprising small thin pieces of gold set into larger objects, continued until the 12th century.
Basse-taille Technique in Italy
A newer technique, Basse-taille, emerged in 13th-century Italy. This method involved applying clear or transparent enamel over a low-relief design, creating a captivating effect. The King’s Lynn Cup, dating back to 1325, is a notable example of early English enamel work.
Royal Treasures: The 14th Century
The Royal Gold Cup, made in Paris in 1380-1390, stands as one of the most important treasures in the British Museum. Despite restoration, it showcases the original vibrant colours, highlighting the durability and longevity of enamels.
Plique-a-jour Technique and Complexity
By the 15th century, enamellers' skills evolved with the introduction of the plique-a-jour technique. This method involved translucent or transparent enamels forming a span across a network of cells without a backing. The silver gilt Mérode cup in the Victoria and Albert Museum, dating from the 15th century, is a remarkable example of this complex technique.
Limoges and Venetian Influence
In the Limoges area of France, skilled in Champlevé techniques, adapted the skill developed by Venetian glassmakers, painting enamels onto metals. This 15th-century technique paved the way for modern art enamellers, requiring less complex divisions or engraving.
From Art to Industrialisation
Until the 18th century, it was enamelling primarily involved the creation of art and religious artefacts. Notable names like Faberge and Battersea became synonymous with the unique appeal of vitreous enamel. However, with the 18th-century advancements in Germany, iron enamelling began, producing enamelled cast iron cooking vessels by the end of the century. Sweden saw the enamelling of sheet iron, and the Industrial Revolution further improved the quality of vitreous enamelling by the mid-19th century, making enamelled cooking vessels commonplace.
A Final Note
The art of enamel jewelry has evolved through millennia, from its humble beginnings in ancient Cyprus to the intricate techniques of Cloisonné and plique-a-jour. Influences from different cultures and periods have shaped the craft, leading to the vibrant and durable enamels we admire today. As we appreciate the historical significance and artistic prowess of enamel jewelry, it is evident that this ancient art form continues to captivate and inspire generations.
At Enamel Jewelry, we embrace this rich legacy, offering a stunning collection that seamlessly combines tradition with contemporary aesthetics. Discover yourself in the world of vibrant and unique enamel jewellery, where each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, artistry, and timeless elegance. Explore the beauty of enamel with us and adorn yourself with jewelry that transcends times and cultures.
