“Compartment” or “partition” - translations of the French word “cloison” suggest that the jewelry crafted with the Cloisonne technique is designed with tiny separated cells. Creating Cloisonne enamel jewelry is a three-step process, requiring unmatched skill and precision.
Tracing the very first origins back to the ancient Near East, we can clearly see that this technique has been around for millennia. Ancient civilizations were using Cloisonne not only to craft accessories but also to create religious and ceremonial items.
The design is transferred to a metal surface by soldering thin wires onto it. This serves as an outline and creates the compartments that are later filled with enamel. After applying powder or paste into these cells, the item is heated in a kiln and cooled down, creating a piece with tiny partitions, all in different, vibrant colors.
Ancient Worlds
The first examples of this technique were discovered while researching ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. However, it’s said that the craftsmanship used on these pieces was not exactly Cloisonne, as researchers claim that the materials were not heated enough to classify jewelry as enamel.
While it’s true that only a few examples of actual Cloisonne enamel were discovered in Egypt, some of the pectoral jewellery found in ancient tombs proves that ancient masters were very well aware of enamelling techniques.
Egypt was the cultural and trading centre of the region at the time, so it was only natural that Cloisonne quickly spread across different parts of the world with the help of the Silk Road and other Mediterranean trading routes. Afterwards, Cloisonne enamel jewellery has been found in various places around the world, even in the Koban culture of the northern and central Caucasus.
Europe
13th century Cyprus was where the first examples of European Cloisonne were found. However, during the 6th century AD, the Byzantines embraced and perfected this ancient craft, making it more popular in the region.
Byzantine Enamel
Almost all European art served one main purpose - religion, and jewellery was no exception. Byzantine enamel pieces depicted detailed scenes from the bible, proving the craftsmen’s talent and attention to detail. Cloisonne was also used to create crosses, chalices, and other religious objects.
Incorporating gold, silver, and different precious gemstones allowed the Byzantine Empire to show its power and wealth. Designing and soldering the wires, compartmentalizing the piece, filling the cells with enamel - one can only imagine the precision and attention to detail the craft required from the masters.
The Byzantine Empire is responsible for some of the most iconic Cloisonne pieces, such as the Holy Crown of Hungary or the Pala d’Oro altarpiece in St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Unfortunately, many of the smaller items were destroyed during iconoclasm due to their religious nature.
Medieval Revival
Religious motifs have never been as prominent as they were during the Renaissance era. Thanks to the European monks who preserved and spread the technique, Cloisonne regained its popularity once again after the fall of the Roman Empire. The Renaissance reawakened the artists’ interest in this ancient craft, urging them to revive and advance it.
Metallurgical advancements were only a part of the innovations that the Renaissance brought along; however, they truly took crafting to a different level. Such developments allowed jewelers to rival the ancient masters, pushing boundaries and creating stunning pieces with greater precision.
Art Nouveau
With the birth of the Art Nouveau movement, Cloisonne was once more revived on the verge of the 19th and 20th centuries. Enamel proved to be a powerful medium for expressing asymmetry and organic forms, which this new art form aimed to emphasize.
The colors on the Art Nouveau Cloisonne were diverse - from bold, saturated hues to soft pastels, items were designed with vibrant palettes that enriched their looks. Incorporating ivory and precious gems turned jewellery into multi-dimensional art pieces.
China
While the Greeks were developing different ways of perfecting the craft, the Silk Road brought Cloisonne to China in the 13th century, during the Yuan dynasty. Chinese masters refined this ancient technique and achieved greater precision both in wirework and enamel application.
in China, Cloisonne production was very closely tied with the crown. First of all, many enamel pieces crafted during the Yuan Dynasty depict imperial symbolism. Besides, Chinese emperors were usually patrons of the art, promoting Cloisonne jewellery to the elites.
The wirework on Cloisonne enamel jewellery has never been as intricate as it was in China. The color palette was vibrant, including turquoise and cobalt blue, which were the predominant hues in imperial Cloisonne. The richness of the Chinese culture was once again proved by the artistic legacy created by the craftsmen.
Final Thoughts
From the ancient fields of Mesopotamia to the dynamism of Art Nouveau, Cloisonne enamelling has continuously proved to be a truly timeless form of art. The Byzantine and the Yuan Empires used Cloisonne to depict imperial symbolism, while the Renaissance urged the artists to display religious motifs.
A need for extreme caution and attention to detail makes Cloisonne one of the most challenging crafts. Each piece requires the jeweler to design the wirework, separate the cells, and apply the enamel paste with millimetre precision, proving the dedication of the ancient masters.
